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El Zanjon
In the historic San Telmo
district of Buenos Aires, Argentina, there is a spectacular 1830
house that was restorated to its original condition and during the
renovations, an underground labyrinth of wide and vaulted brick
tunnels were discovered that have been sealed off for centuries.
Believed to belong the first settlement in Buenos Aires in 1536, El
Zanjon, or the Rivulet allows visitors to go back in time, to that
glorious period when the country was first settled. Many historians
and archaeologists believe these hidden tunnels of El Zanjon de
Granados ravines were the site of the first settlement of the city,
although they have never been found, although here is the statement
of Ulrich Schmidl, the initial historian of the river plate and
companion of the founder of the city, Don Pedro de Mendoza. Part of
that old Zanjon was discovered under this historical 19th century
structure, which extends beneath the entire length of the town
square. There were numerous discoveries of the former Zanjon, where
the ruins of old foundations, water wells, old walls, sewage pits,
floors and other remnants were constructed and destroyed between
1730 and 1865. The Buenos Aires Heritage Guide that is edited by the
city council, states that the site is one of the most significant
archaeological dig in the city. The structure was a mansion, and
then converted into a tenement house by the early 20th century, and
by 1985, had been walled off, with the ground floor full of debris.
With the renovation finished, elaborate glass and steel elevators
carry the visitors to the lighted tunnels of El Zanjon.
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Museo Evita
Fifty years to the day after the
death of Eva Peron, her grandniece, Cristina Alvarez opened the
Evita Museum in Buenos Aires, Argentina, July 26, 2002, a political
icon that spanned two different centuries is housed in a magnificent
mansion that was built for the Carabassa family in the early part of
the 20th century. The structure was designed by architect Estanislao
Pirovano, and is a combination of styles, platersque and Italian
renaissance, which became a national historical monument in 1999.
During 1948, the Eva Peron Foundation purchased the old mansion so
that it could be transformed into the Hogar de Transito, or
temporary home shelter number 2 for the women and children of the
city that didn't have any resources. In July 18, 1948, Evita
inaugurated the El Hogar using these words, "the temporary home
shelters those in need and those who have no home...for as long as
necessary until work and a home can be found..". Eva offered the
women and children an open door, with a place for them to sit at a
table and eat with others, and a clean bed. There is also motivation
and consolation, faith and self-confidence, as well as encouragement
and hope. This building echoed with the sounds of Eva and the happy
voices of women and children that took refuge here, and now the
museum of that famous woman, a living museum, is situated here, so
that the people of this country and those visiting can learn about
her, know, appreciate and understand this most important woman in
the history of the country. Felix Luna, wrote in his book, El 45,
how it was in the city in 1945, without streetlights, televisions or
radios, but many platform shoes, long dresses and trolleys. Luna
said the country was made up of dusty roads, without, traffic,
tourism or auto industry. Tucuman remained the "garden of the
republic", and San Juan was just getting over an earthquake that
brought Eva Duarte and Peron together. Eva was living in Buenos
Aires, knew about Quinquela Martin, the working class painter from
the Italian neighborhood of La Boca and the hit song, "J'attendrai".
But she also saw the sights that writers, singers or painters didn't
see, the children begging on the streets, that lived in the
orphanages that was operated by the 87 wealthy old ladies of the
Society of Beneficence. These desolate children would be identified
by their shaven heads, and numbers instead of names, with tin bowls
or signs saying they were collecting for the poor children;
themselves. Eva had learned first hand what it was like to be poor
and without work, having visited postwar Europe in 1947, so she knew
what was needed and what wasn't by her experience there. She would
first listen to the pope, John XXIII, as he gave her advice; "do not
burden yourself with the official paperwork but preserve the
flexibility of a non-bureaucratic organization," and since he
discerned the caliber of her soul, "devote yourself without limits".
And then finally, almost prophetically, he told her, "remember that
the way of service to the poor always ends in the cross." Secondly
she would gain knowledge in Europe so that her endeavors would not
be spiritually poor, or spartan in the words of the bureaucrats.
Eva's schools, hospitals, cities, villages for seniors, homes for
the working women and their children should be constructed with the
idea of helping and respecting people as individuals rather than
accommodating numbers. In the children's city, uniforms were
outlawed, and new clothes and toys were acquired from the best shops
in the city, and if you should see these children in their homes
that were constructed by Eva' foundation, you would see them all
wearing different outfits, unless they had on the smocks that all
schoolchildren wore to keep their own clothes clean. The controversy
that surrounds Eva Peron shall continue throughout history, like the
dark cloud that hangs over the events of Dallas in 1964, and many
may gleam some idea of what she was really like by the books or
movies made about her, but it is her legacy, as well as the many
people that loved her and still do that make up what Eva Peron
really was. Her museum and library should shed some truthful light
on her life and what she did for her country, and most importantly,
for her people.
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